USA – Middle East

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USA – Middle East

Wedding. Wedding in Cleveland. We were invited to a wedding in Cleveland. Where is this Cleveland, by the way? Ah, between New York and Chicago! And so began our thought process of developing a unique 3-week journey through the “Middle East” of the USA in July 2022. What the “Middle East” is for us and which states and cities we drove through you can find out on the following pages.

No east or west coast tour; no, we drove over 3.500 km through the history of the United States along Route 66 and the Mississippi with musical accompaniment of Hip-Hop, Country, Jazz and Blues. Get on board and relive with us the wonderful impressions between Cleveland and New Orleans. Thanks to the now married couple Clara and Blaine for this opportunity.

On our three-week trip, we felt less like tourists or mere travelers (and even less like vacationers). We felt more and more like documentary filmmakers as the route progressed, getting a glimpse into the daily lives of local people, soaking up, documenting and capturing what was happening. Along the roads and trails, canals and highways. We were not part of the constantly moving crowd. We were outsiders observing the whole spectacle and traveling through the history and culture of a country.

Cleveland (Ohio) – Day 1 to 4

Cleveland, the city you never visited… At least that’s the sound of the self-ironic text on some of the city’s postcards. Cleveland is a friendly city located at Lake Erie in the north of the USA. It was our first stop through the “Flyover States” (due to its location between the more popular East or West Coast) or the “Rust Belt” (industrial region in the USA) and was the perfect start for our tour.

By the way, we had gotten a USA sim card (150 GB LTE from Simly) for our trip, which made traveling (using Google Maps, Uber, etc.) much easier and made us even more independent. At the end of the three weeks, we had used just 5 GB despite daily use.

Once again, we were shown abroad how public transportation and especially connecting an airport to the city can work without costing a fortune. In fact, we took the RTA from Cleveland Hopkins Airport to downtown in a very relaxed manner. After making our 20-hour journey on schedule. The ride cost a few dollars and in Germany we celebrate ourselves for the 9 Euro ticket.

The Start

Our accommodation was the Hyatt Regency Cleveland Hotel at The Arcade*. This is where the gorgeous wedding took place and was also the first sight on our “Middle East” tour and in Cleveland as well. The Arcade was built in 1890 in Victorian style and is one of the first shopping arcades in the United States. It was truly an experience to spend our stay in Cleveland in this historic edifice.

Cleveland has numerous sights and beautiful spots to offer that justify a two-day stay. Not far from The Arcade is the Terminal Tower in downtown Cleveland. The skyscraper was the second tallest skyscraper in the world in the year it opened (1928). Today it is part of a complex of buildings called Tower City Center. In addition to Tower City Station, it is also home to offices, a shopping center and a casino.

Cleveland is certainly famous for its Rock and Roll Hall of Fame Museum on the beautiful waterfront. We outed ourselves at this point as cultural lazybones and saved the entrance to the museum. Instead, we walked on over to Heinen’s Downtown. Basically, a grocery store, this attraction gets its appeal from the historic building in which it is located. With a beautiful rotunda and beverage area on the second level, shopping here is a real highlight.

Watch for the Signs

Another little highlight is spotting the six Cleveland Script Signs scattered around. We made it to four of these script signs and were able to take some nice souvenir photos (“Hunter and Gatherer”). With the help of Google, you will surely be able to find all six, which would be: Tremont, North Coast Harbor, Edgewater Park, The Foundry, Euclid Beach as well as Hopkins Airport.

Following the Cleveland Script Signs is a nice scavenger hunt that also connects the other points of interest at the same time. So, on the way to the Tremont Script Sign, we first passed a great photo spot for the Cleveland skyline. It is located on Franklin Boulevard south of the Cuyahoga River. We got there by foot from downtown via the Detroit-Superior Bridge.

Further south, we arrived at the West Side Market in the hip Ohio City neighborhood. The over 100-year-old market hall is definitely worth a visit. With its Byzantine architecture, it is an eye-catcher and offers the possibility to observe the market from above via a staircase. Even for non-gourmets a recommendation. East of it in walking distance you get to the Cleveland Script Sign – Tremont. Here we had a great view of the city with its industrial charm, which in Germany exists perhaps only in the Ruhr area.

Sense of Home

Afterwards we took an Uber and let us drive to Edgewater Park. The park offers opportunities for walking and a beach downtown. There is also another Cleveland sign here with a skyline view. We decided we had taken in enough nature and moved back to the city center via Uber. Here we had earned some original Cleveland ice cream from Mitchell’s Ice Cream. A local company that was started by two brothers over 20 years ago in Cleveland.

Across from The Arcade is a lively street (East Fourth Street) with numerous restaurants as well as the Visitors Center. The street invites you to linger, eat and drink. What we also did to the end of the afternoon. In the evening, we picked up our rental car (Check24* and Alamo), which we kept the entire trip, unlike on our East Coast tour. This saved us unnecessary return actions and we were constantly mobile. Interestingly, we were told at the rental car pickup that we were already the second German couple who picked up their car in Cleveland and will return it in New Orleans.

Keep on Rollin

This option was in the end without alternative and also necessary. Either the distances were too long to walk or the weather was simply unbearable. The heat and the humidity were already high in Cleveland and increased with every kilometer southward. Furthermore, the issue of safety played a significant role when traveling alone through certain corners of a country. A car was the safer and more flexible choice.

To say goodbye to Cleveland, we were invited to a barbecue at the groom’s parents’ home. A worthy and authentic end to the festivities, which perfectly framed the positive image of Cleveland. But enough of the introductory words – it was time to drive off and explore our “Middle East “.

Chicago (Illinois) – Day 5 to 7

Chicago, the better New York, as it turned out later, we reached after a 12-hour drive and crossing another time zone. We didn’t have to worry about tolls either. In the north we avoided toll roads by taking alternative routes and in the south there were no tolls that affected us.

Before reaching Chicago, we used the stretch to include two stops. The first was Detroit (Michigan) and here the Ransom Gillis House in Brush Park. In our opinion the perfect place to describe the city’s departure into the future. The neighborhood has been and is being rebuilt as a new residential neighborhood. To toast the future of Detroit we visited the Saucy Brew Works located there. And it was here, at the latest, that I lost my pure pilsner soul to craft beer.

In the Chicago metropolitan area, we drove out near Gary, IN to check out Michael Jackson’s Childhood Home. No place we drove through was as characterized by decline and desolation as Gary. Only the former home of the Jackson Five and Michael Jackson, as a child, was well kept and presentable. We spent only as much time as necessary at this place and in the neighborhood there. Nevertheless, a must and quite a real-life experience to have been here.

Infected by the City

Our hotel in Chicago, the Eurostar Magnificent Mile*, was also the best on our entire trip. Our room was completely windowed and was located on the 16th floor. The view was breathtaking and staying in the room was simply a dream. Bruce Wayne would have been proud. The location was equally perfect for getting to the sights on foot or by public transportation, the cta. We were also able to conveniently park our car in the adjacent parking garage (one block north) for 35 USD per night.

After that darn long day, there was only one challenge left to overcome: the long line outside Pizzeria Uno – the birthplace of the original 1943 Chicago Deep Dish Pizza. We were going to get lucky. When we fought our way in and asked for a table, instead of waiting nearly an hour for a table, we were offered the option of sitting at the bar. We gratefully accepted and had a great first evening in Chicago.

We started our first full day in Chicago with a visit to the Willis Tower Skydeck. The Willis Tower is the tallest building in Chicago and the third tallest skyscraper in the US. We booked our tickets in advance and had no problems with long queues so early in the day. The view from up there is simply magnificent and the real highlight are definitely the glass boxes (The Ledge). These are located at a height of over 400 m outside the building and provide pure thrills. Everything is timed and as visitors we had about 3 minutes for photos before we had to make room again (but queuing several times is possible). So you really have the respective box for yourself and do not have to worry about other visitors who are in the picture or fight hard for the place.

Architecture that inspires

A few blocks further east you come to the Rookery Building. A historic building designed by architects Daniel Burnham and John Wellborn Root in 1888, this building is best known for its staircase. Basically, Chicago is a city for architects and is certainly one of the main destinations during the study of architecture. By the way, you can get access to the staircase as a visitor only through a booked tour. The view from the top to the bottom of the staircase is then even more exclusive and requires another additional booking.

When you leave the Rookery Building and walk west on W Adams St to S La Salle St and look south you will see the headquarters of Wayne Enterprises. You don’t believe it? You think you see the Chicago Board of Trade building there? Then watch Batman Begins. This was one of the many locations for Christopher Nolan’s film from 2005.

Further east at the corner of E Adams St and S Michigan Ave is the Historic Route 66 Begin Sign. The world’s most famous road took its start here in 1926 and lasted until 1985 – before being gradually replaced by interstate highways. Over a total length of nearly 4,000 km, this highway stretched across eight states, beginning in Illinois and ending in California. What many people don’t know is that most sections of the road can still be traveled and that there is so much American history hidden along the route to be discovered. But more on that later.

Summer, Sun and Sunshine

The crowds showed us the way to Millennium Park and the famous Cloud Gate. Americans know how to entertain and so the park is a huge leisure complex with entertainment, art and nature. The main attraction is certainly the artwork Cloud Gate (also called The Bean because of its shape) by Anish Kapoor. With its smooth surface, it reflects the surroundings and invites you to take a photo shoot.

In the perfect summer weather, we continued our walk through the urban jungle. We came to the Chicago Theatre. A building over 100 years old and now one of the city’s landmarks. We were content with outside photos and moved on to the Chicago River.

Here we arrived at the DuSable Bridge and in front of the Wrigley Building. From the bridge you have a gigantic view of the city. The Wrigley Building of the famous chewing gum manufacturer is a highlight for everyone interested in architecture with its clock tower and the connecting bridge between the two buildings. Your Chicago #1 photo, by the way, can be snapped from the Wendella Tours & Cruises location next to the Wrigley Building. Make sure that Trump Tower is visible on the right side of the picture – then you’ll have the perfect shot.

Until the film is full

We followed the Riverwalk to the Franklin-Orleans Street Bridge to the west. The Riverwalk is a sight in itself and built as a promenade to the Chicago River in the shadow of the numerous bridges and skyscrapers. Along the way are many restaurants and places to linger. From the Franklin-Orleans Street Bridge you get another nice photo of the city.

Chicago offers countless photo spots. One of them, from the Wells Kinzie Parking Garage, allows for a great shot of the Chicago elevated train (Chicago L) and The Loop, as the center of the line network. If you go up to the 4th level of the parking garage you get a very good view of the train going by. Go ahead and check it out.

As for the food, we had completely hit the mark with the location of our hotel. At every corner there were possibilities to eat. This was also the case on this day, where we visited the Italian restaurant Quartino Ristorante. Nice gimmick of the restaurant is that all the waiters wear jerseys of Italian soccer teams. But the food and wine were definitely better than the Italian soccer.

Next round, best round

The next morning, we were out early again on the River and Lake Cruise* booked through Getyourguide* and operated by Wendella Tours & Cruises. It is recommended to be there at least 30 minutes before departure to take your seat. The cruise goes out onto Lake Michigan and back onto the Chicago River. We learned a lot of interesting information about the importance of the lake and river to the city; its flow direction and color. It was a highly recommended ride and a must for any Chicago visitor.

From the boat you get a completely different perspective of the city and an impressive skyline view from Lake Michigan. On this tour we learned the meaning of the four stars on Chicago’s flag. These, in fact, stand for the four F’s that shaped Chicago in the past into what it is today. Fire, Fort, Fair and Fair stand for the events of the past. The fire of 1871, for example, burned down almost the entire city. Fort Dearborn was built in 1803 on the site of what would later become Chicago, and the two fairs or world’s fairs of 1893 and 1933 brought the necessary growth to the city.

Enamored by the water, we moved on to Navy Pier. Here, too, the focus is on recreational entertainment and fun. Best suited for this is the Ferris wheel Centennial Wheel. Not far from Navy Pier is the Milton Lee Olive Park and Ohio Street Beach. The complex is pleasantly quiet and uncrowded. The city beach with the skyline in the background is also a real eye-catcher.

The heart of America

On the Lakefront Trail, we walked north along the wide promenade for bicyclists and pedestrians. The trail is a total of just under 30 km long and stretches along Chicago’s east coast. We didn’t quite walk the 30 km this time, but turned off in the direction of the Chicago Historic Water Tower on the Magnificent Mile. This is where the rich and famous hang out. And also, in the luxury department store Nordstrom. For those who happen to be at least less wealthy, the Nordstrom Rack is an outlet for luxury fashion brands.

The second full day in Chicago flew by and we headed to the John Hancock Center. Here we booked in advance the 360 ° Observation Deck and wanted to enjoy Chicago again from the height. By the way, the John Hancock Center is home to the highest swimming pool in North America on the 44th floor and the observation deck we visited is on the 94th floor. Here, too, the view is magnificent and provides a view in the four cardinal directions. The special feature of the 360° Observation Deck is the Tilt. Visitors lean against the glass pane, which tilts forward out of the building. For this extra you have to pay extra and you are not allowed to film the event yourself. For us it was not very interesting.

Looking into the distance makes you hungry and so we went to Gordon Ramsay Burger on Ontario Street. What can I say? It was one of the best burgers of our trip. Even the hot dog we had as an appetizer has been excellent. We then concluded our Chicago stay with a visit to the LH Rooftop Bar at London House. Unfortunately, the place was so crowded that we were content with a few photos from the balcony (amazing view, especially at night) and headed home.

St. Louis (Missouri) – Day 8 to 9

You can only change things if you do things with passion and fun. These wise words apply not only to Adonis Johnson from Creed II, but to everyone in the world. So we moved on, with passion and fun, along our route and spontaneously made another detour a little north of Chicago.

About 30 minutes from Chicago, at 671 Lincoln Ave at 60093 Winnetka, is the “Home Alone” house. Of course, we couldn’t pass up this opportunity and visited this filming location from the movie of our childhood days. To power up for our 10-hour drive to St. Louis, we had a fantastic breakfast at the tranquil Original Greenbay Cafe. These suburbs in America are just pure relaxation.

On our route from Chicago to St. Louis we stopped at two stations. The first stop was again spontaneous and concerned the legendary Route 66, which accompanied us anyway parallel to our highway. Following a road sign, we took the exit to one of the numerous historic stops along the old Route 66 and came to Dwight and the Ambler’s Texaco Gas Station. An old gas station and garage that was still active until 2002. Now the station offers travelers the opportunity to stop in and gather information about a long-forgotten time.

Rich History

The second stop was Springfield, IL. The city of Abraham Lincoln attracted us for that very reason and led us to his grave at Oak Ridge Cemetery. It was also thematically fitting for our trip to pay a visit to the 16th President of the United States of America and a major opponent of slavery. The site and grave were sparsely visited, and admission was also free.

With our luck, Springfield’s next landmark was of course under construction and thus covered with scaffolding, so we could see little of the former government building Old State Capitol. Not far from the Lincoln Home National Historic Site Visitor Center, we stopped for dinner at Obed & Isaac’s Microbrewery and enjoyed a Springfield Horseshoe Sandwich. This dish consists of bread with choice of meat and fries and cheese. Something for the light appetite so to speak.

Arriving in St. Louis, the day was also coming to an end. Every city looks bad after Chicago, but in St. Louis we really had an oppressive feeling during our stay. It’s fascinating in a macabre way to see how decay and boom can be as close together as they are in American cities. St. Louis made the official start here, so to speak.

Mississippi metropolis

Our hotel was the Missouri Athletic Club* and a prime example of American interior design culture in dark wood. The hotel left nothing to be desired. Only, for us, it could well have been the filming location for Exorcist IV (or at least the playground for the Grady Twins from The Shining). Let’s just say that the accommodations felt very authentic and even dictated a dress code for the restaurant and bar – spooky.

As ominous as St. Louis seemed to us German village kids, there were plenty of opportunities to explore the city and the surrounding area. Early in the morning we went to the main attraction: The Gateway Arch. The Gateway Arch serves as a monument and is almost 200 meters high. This makes it the tallest arch in the world and the tallest accessible building in the state of Missouri. The Gateway Arch is historically located on the site of the founding of the city of St. Louis directly on the Mississippi River.

The highlight is the ride up to the observation deck on a streetcar of sorts, as well as the view of the city and Mississippi River from the top. The rides and length of stay at the top are strictly timed due to limited space; so, don’t stroll too long and have your cameras ready. The visitor level in the basement, with the museum, is equally worth seeing and chronicles the fascinating history of the city as well as the construction of the Gateway Arch. A particularly cool photo spot is at the base of the arch outside – go ahead and try it out.

Heart of a lost civilization

By car we went about 10 minutes east out of town to the historic town of Cahokia. Here it is best to drive directly to Monks Mound for the best overview and the main spot of the entire site. Cahokia is considered the largest pre-Columbian city north of Mexico. In 700 A.D. the city was built and lasted until about 1400. We were offered a great contrast to the concrete world of the city and a pleasantly peaceful atmosphere.

Back to the city we stayed on the eastern bank. Here, at the Mississippi River Overlook, we got a nice view of the skyline with the famous archway. We were able to send greetings live (and uncensored) to home via the webcam mounted there. Surreal fun that we were happy to share.

To keep with the theme of variety, we continued across town to the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis. The imposing cathedral was completed in 1914 and is famous for its mosaic. The grotesque thing about the building is the fact that the age of the cathedral surprises you and you would rather assign such a building to a much earlier era than 1914 (where the First World War started).

King of Beers

After so much culture, we needed to cool off. This came in the form of a rainstorm and the tour of the Anheuser Busch site. This traditional brewery (known mainly for Budweiser) is part of the Anheuser-Busch-InBev group, making it the largest brewing group in the world. The tour of the huge premises was entertaining and there was also free beer at the end.

In the evening we went (of course by car – safety first) to the Broadway Oyster Bar. Although actually located in the city center, the neighborhood already looked bad on Google Maps. But the conditions on site exceeded our research by far. The neighborhood and also the pub were so bad that it was already stylish again. According to the motto “yesterday civil war – today party” we seemed to be the only ones who were irritated by it. And so, we tried to enjoy the evening. The place was full; the fish fishy and the beer cold. We were satisfied.

Nashville (Tennessee) – Day 10 to 11

The following day can be called a transfer day. We drove almost 500 km from St. Louis to Nashville. Before we arrived in Nashville and at our accommodation, we made a short detour to the Outlet Opry Mills just outside the city in Music Valley. There we stretched our legs and filled our shopping bags. We then headed to The Hayes Street Hotel* in Midtown. A great and modern place to stay. An advantage here was the possibility to park on the street in front of the hotel and thus save the hefty parking fees.

The next morning, we took an Uber to the Country Music Hall of Fame. Oh yeah, cowboy, country music makes Nashville pulsate. The day started with musical culture and the right attunement for the rest of the day. We booked the ticket for the museum in advance as well as a connecting excursion to RCA Studio B on Music Row, which we then reached by bus.

The museum is worth a visit even for non-country fans to soak up a piece of American culture. Famous artists like Loretta Lynn, Dolly Parton, Johnny Cash or Elvis Presley are represented here. A stay of two hours is definitely to be planned here. After the museum, we took the bus to RCA Studio B. Our guide Ron was great and passionate about the subject. The music studio was a hotbed of hits in the 1960s and the source of numerous No. 1 hits for Elvis, among others. The tour promises pure goose bumps for sure.

“Take it easy, take it slow”

Back at the Country Music Hall of Fame, we walked to Legends Corner through Walk of Fame Park. At Legends Corner there is not only the Ryman Auditorium (venue for concerts), but also the beginning of the famous party mile – Broadway in The District. Here, pubs and bars line up, with live music blasting through the open windows on every level. No matter which pub you stumble into, you won’t be disappointed. Some have rooftops and thus a great view of the action. The atmosphere here is boisterous and infectious even early in the day.

By the way, from the John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge you get a great view of the Nashville skyline. We luckily had hit Saturday to visit Nashville and got served the full program. There was an atmosphere in the city like maybe at the public viewing of the soccer world championships. Besides the countless locations in the center of the city, the Wildhorse Saloon has to be highlighted. Here there is not only the possibility of eating and drinking. There are also artists who perform live and at certain times there are line dancing classes for beginners. In any case, the Wildhorse Saloon is a must-see for Nashville and for us the perfect end to our (far too short) visit.

Memphis (Tennessee) – Day 12 to 13

We were not out of Nashville that fast. On the day of departure, we made a short visit to the Parthenon in Centennial Park. The Parthenon in Nashville is a replica of the original in Athens and was a peaceful contrast to the previous evening on this Sunday morning.

Not far from Nashville, about 120 km away, is the sleepy little village of Lynchburg. This is the home of Jack Daniel’s and every bottle of this whiskey that is bottled and shipped around the world. We booked ourselves The Flight of Jack Tour and were wonderfully provided with interesting facts and shown around for an hour and a half. At the end there was a whiskey tasting, conveniently to the existing hangover from Nashville, more or less for brunch.

We can definitely recommend the Jack Daniel Distillery, and the next time we have a glass of Jackie-Cola, we’ll remember our visit here wistfully. Before leaving for Memphis, we visited the Lynchburg Historic Market and secured two original Lynchburg Lemonade glasses for that special cocktail at home. If you want to have the complete Tennessee whiskey experience, you can explore the Tennessee Whiskey Trail with over 30 stops. Unfortunately, we couldn’t. We still had to drive.

Egypt, Elvis and Ducks

Arriving in Memphis in the evening, a ghost town and mucky weather awaited us. After checking in at our Hu Hotel*, we took the car to a nearby parking garage. The hotel seemed to be getting on in years, but exuded that certain charm of the glamour of days gone by (which was actually nothing new on our route). Most importantly, we felt comfortable and can only recommend the hotel for its location as well. Furthermore, the hotel had its own rooftop bar overlooking the Mississippi River and the colorful (at night) Hernando de Soto Bridge.

The next day, we had an 11 a.m. appointment with the city’s most famous ducks. Right. Ducks are the highlight of Memphis (followed immediately by Elvis). In the historic The Peabody Hotel* from 1925, ducks reside on the roof in their own penthouse and are escorted daily at 11 a.m. by elevator (via a red carpet) into the lobby to the fountain. In the evening they return at 5 pm. Crowds of people gather for this spectacle and the lobby is filled to the last seat. This only happens in America. Don’t miss the spectacle and drive up to the roof yourself and enjoy the view.

With temperatures still very high, we marched to the legendary Sun Studio and booked a tour on the spot. For us an absolute must when visiting Memphis and an insane goose bumps atmosphere. In this studio Elvis Presley was discovered – let’s say in a roundabout way – and recorded his very first song privately before he celebrated his breakthrough one year later. At the latest, when you are allowed to hold the original microphone Shure 55S, which Elvis already held in his hands for his recordings, you will leave the premises as an Elvis fan.

“Always on my mind”

With so many impressions about Elvis we had to pay tribute and made our way to the Elvis statue in downtown. Next to the statue, the second party mile on our “Middle East” tour begins, the famous Beale Street (after Broadway in Nashville and before Bourbon Street in New Orleans). Due to time constraints, we were only able to visit the street during the day and thus only get a glimpse of its potential for the evening hours.

Numerous photo spots, eateries, tourist stores and bars line the street. We recharged at the Blues City Cafe, drank an Elvis milkshake (peanut butter and banana) at the A. Schwab general store, which opened in 1876, and enjoyed the view with a cool drink at Alfred’s Patio Bar. You can also get a great photo of Beale Street from here.

To finish the day’s program, we went on to Mud Island Park. This can be reached from 125 North Front Street and via the oversized Skybridge pedestrian bridge. The bridge has a railroad that is no longer in operation. But the wagons are still hanging and the whole thing looks like it was abandoned overnight. We passed through the deserted bridge (and Wolf River Harbor) and arrived at the Mississippi River Museum on the other side.

Where legends live forever

This museum, also gigantic, was however closed due to repair work. The whole facility had certainly seen nicer times, but now it was simply a backdrop from Stephen King’s The Dark Tower. We left the abandoned museum and stepped outside. Here we found the Mississippi Riverwalk, which was a miniature representation of the course of the river. An ingenious idea and great realization awaited us there and so we walked through the states and the cities that the river runs through.

Past the amphitheater, which was probably used for numerous concerts in the past and is now just a concrete ruin, we went to the actual destination on Mud Island. The Memphis Sign in front of the city panorama should serve us for unforgettable photos and it did. The Memphis Sign, like all of Mud Island, are worth a visit. Not only because of the beauty, but also because of the post-apocalyptic atmosphere.

Once a grave – Today a shop

For the evening, we went to the Memphis Pyramid. A huge pyramid with, among other things, a gigantic Bass Pro Shop (set up like an amusement park!) inside and The Lookout at the Pyramid restaurant at the top with an observation deck that can only be reached by the highest freestanding elevator in America – why not. Reservations are required for the restaurant, and proof of confirmation must be shown in front of the elevator. Nonetheless, you still pay 8 USD for the ride up, with or without a restaurant visit.

The restaurant and the view are absolutely recommendable. Especially the sunset over the Mississippi is unique. The view of the city from the second observation deck also has its charm. Just don’t expect Manhattan, instead “only” Memphis. The maritime ambience inside is also very well designed (BioShock sends its regards) and contributes to the positive impression. The food was very tasty and the waiters were very attentive.

Vicksburg (Mississippi) – Day 13 to 14

We left Memphis the next day, of course, not without visiting Graceland (the former estate of Elvis Presley). Elvis, who had lived in Memphis since his childhood and had always been loyal to the city, left a gift to his city with his estate, from which it can sustain today. For our stay on the exhibition grounds with museums and exhibition rooms as well as a trip across the street to his actual estate, we booked the Elvis Experience Tour in advance.

On this tour (please allow at least 3.5 hours) you get to see everything about Elvis’ life. Whether his music, outfits, time in the army, his film career, his cars or even airplanes. Everything is revealed to the visitor up to his grave in the garden on Graceland. You will never get this close to the King again.

Before arriving in Vicksburg, we made a short stop in Jackson, the capital of the state of Mississippi. As a representative stop we chose the most historic building in the state of Mississippi – the Old Capitol – built in 1839. The building with the museum had closed due to repair work, but the area was accessible and thus we could get an impression (at least from the outside). Here, among other things, the secession of Mississippi from the Union and the drafting of the state constitution took place.

Bravery at the Mississippi

Honestly, we didn’t reach Vicksburg that day, because we chose our accommodation outside the city. We wanted to spend at least one night in one of these motels, where every serial killer would feel comfortable. And so we did, and with the Econo Lodge* we also found the perfect accommodation for it. Actually, our room was almost too modern for our liking and the obligatory carpet with stains was missing. After checking in, we drove to the nearby Cracker Barrel for dinner and some authenticity.

We started the next day with a wonderful breakfast at Waffle House. This rancid diner with the washed-up waiters was awesome, I’m afraid. This is how I imagine an authentic breakfast after a night in the Econo Lodge on Interstate 20. Strengthened and happy, however, we really went to Vicksburg, a small town that played an important role in the American Civil War. Because of its strategic location on the Mississippi River, it was thus “the key to the South.”

Therefore, our first stop was also the Vicksburg National Military Park. This park can be easily visited by car and costs 20 USD entrance fee. The imposing and huge facility offers many corners to discover. Especially the Illinois Memorial has to be mentioned: With a great view over the area and built in honor of the soldiers during the siege of the city inside.

“Enjoy the Real Thing”

Regardless of the Civil War, there is one major reason to visit Vicksburg. Namely, the fact that the first Coca-Cola bottle was bottled here in 1894. This can be experienced very well in the small but fine Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum. For 3.50 USD entrance fee, we had the small museum and the exhibition rooms to ourselves. Coca-Cola already existed before. But it was sold as syrup in pharmacies and had to be mixed with water at the fancy soda foutains. Coca-Cola is another example of the American Dream, just as Jack Daniel’s was. No wonder both found their way into our glasses combined as Jacky-Cola. Cheers.

Across from the Biedenharn Museum is the Welcome to Vicksburg Mural for those interested in photography. Further south, following Washington Street, we drove through the beautiful and also with potential afflicted, albeit very sleepy, old town. On this Wednesday afternoon at over 30° Celsius probably only a few people felt like fighting through the heat and mugginess. Before we left Vicksburg we stopped at the Mississippi Welcome Center. Here you can get a nice snapshot of the old and the new Vicksburg Bridge. In addition, the extremely friendly staff helped us out with a free postcard, so that we could finally put a check mark behind the worth seeing Vicksburg.

A hiking route

On our journey further south, we drove along the Natchez Trace Parkway between Vicksburg and Natchez. This roadway, more than 700 km long, was an 8,000 year old trade route of the Indians and connects Natchez with Nashville. We joined the Natchez Trace Parkway at Waterloo Cemetery (leaving the 552), because we had previously visited the Windsor Ruins at Port Gibson (on the advice and insistent recommendation of the nice ladies at the Mississippi Welcome Center). A remnant of what was probably the largest mansion in contemporary history, built in 1861, and a testimony of the wealth of the plantation owners of that time.

At this point, it should not go unmentioned: The Natchez Trace Parkway was the best road on our entire trip. We drove through a picturesque and well-maintained area and enjoyed the peace and solitude. Along the way, there are countless stations to stop at. But these are rather inconspicuous and require more time than we had available. Shortly before Natchez there is a good opportunity to take a photo of the sign of the parkway and then head in the direction of one’ s accommodation.

Natchez (Mississippi) – Day 15 to 16

Our accommodation was the Linden Bed & Breakfast Hotel* and a real hit. In a former mansion from 1790 with incredibly beautifully restored yet modern rooms, we felt less like hotel guests and more like visiting family enjoying the wonderful Southern hospitality. Breakfast was served on the picture-perfect Southern porch. There are also guided tours of the historic building, which we unfortunately missed due to the first evening program in Natchez. The hotel was our first sight before we even explored the city.

Right on the Mississippi River, there are a handful of restaurants that are inevitable to go to as a visitor to Natchez. For dinner, we went to The Camp Restaurant with a huge selection of craft beers. For drinks and the end of the first evening at our second-to-last stop on our journey, we went to the neighboring Under-the-Hill Saloon. By the way, we spent the second evening at the Magnolia Grill a few doors down.

Upon entering the saloon, we stepped into the Nasty Natchez of over 200 years ago when the Mississippi River washed all the outlaws ashore. The bar is one-of-a-kind and a witness to an almost forgotten history. Walk in to the bar, sit at the counter and order yourself a beer. The rest will take care of itself and you will enjoy an unforgettable evening here among the locals, with live music in the background. But don’t forget to go out on the porch in between for the sunset. The sunset over the Mississippi is something unique, and so it is bearable if the following day is a little shorter.

“Truth is stranger than fiction”

We then explored the sleepy community of Natchez comfortably by car the next day. Our first destination was the Forks of the Road not far from our accommodation. This kind of memorial is located on one of the largest former slave markets in the southern states. Today it is relatively inconspicuous across from an auto repair shop and you have to look closely to spot the chains anchored in the ground in the grass. Informational plaques here tell the story and embedded chains show relatively vivid evidence of the past.

Our next stop was the Melrose mansion of a former plantation owner. The estate can be visited for free as a self-guided tour. Tours of the interior of the stately home are offered to the interested visitor for 10 USD. We left it at the exterior and visited the impressive mansion from 1849 from the outside as well as the associated buildings, such as the slave cabins, laundry or the stable.

We continued to the next mansion called Longwood. Here we did not even enter the grounds, but were intercepted by the gatekeeper. We saved the entrance fee of 25 USD at this point and thus did not get to see this never completed, oriental-inspired villa, which provides uniqueness with its octagonal floor plan.

Southern Charm

But it wasn’t really a pity, because there are more than enough houses with history in Natchez. Like the William Johnson House in the center of the city. This belonged to the freed slave William Johnson, who was able to start his new life at the age of eleven. Johnson became known as a barber in Natchez. Today his former house serves as a museum.

True to the motto “House at the end of the street,” we continued on to Stanton Hall. A palatial Greek Revival house right in the heart of Natchez. We did not take the free guided tour of the mansion. Still, this testament to past wealth is certainly one of the top 5 mansions in Natchez.

The oldest house in Natchez was formerly home to the King’s Tavern and can be found at 613 Jefferson Street. When we were there, the building was for sale. The house itself dates back to 1769 and deserves to have a new owner. We ended our day trip at Natchez Coffee. A cool and authentic store where a group of grannies sat at a table knitting. A perfect final picture of this beautiful town on the Mississippi- River.

New Orleans (Louisiana) – Day 17 to 21

And then it was time. The day we should reach our last stop, when we should drive the last kilometers with our rental car and complete the 3,500 km on the clock. The end of the boundless freedom ended in New Orleans. But before that happened, there was still one stop on our route that we visited.

Oak Alley Plantation became our destination and served as a representative of the numerous plantations and mansions of the cotton and sugar cane eras along the Mississippi River. Of course, only made possible by slavery and the associated human labor that didn’t cost anything. Incidentally, Interview with the Vampire was filmed at the Oak Alley Plantation. 12 Years a Slave was filmed at Felicity Plantation and Django Unchained at Evergreen Plantation, among others. In case you’re looking for alternatives.

We pre-booked the Historic Site with “Big House” Exhibit ticket, which includes the entire site and a guided tour of the mansion. You should plan at least two hours for the visit, as there is much to see and explore (as well as photograph, of course) on 28 acres of land with a 180-year history.

The soul of jazz

The former sugar plantation of Jacques Roman and his wife Celina offers besides the impressive mansion (Big House) also other areas, such as the slave cabins, the wonderful and eponymous oak avenue, a sugar cane exhibition (the white gold), the garden and the burial place of the last owners of the plantation (Andrew and Josephine Stewart). Josephine, by the way, is to thank for the fact that the plantation is now open to the public. Before her death, she founded the Oak Alley Foundation, which manages the whole property. For us, a mandatory visit on the way to New Orleans and absolutely recommended.

Our entry into New Orleans dragged on due to a traffic jam that wouldn’t end. Nevertheless, we reached our first sight (as a warm-up program, so to speak) without any stress and drove to 2014 Magazine Street. Here the Greetings from Nola Mural was our destination and photo spot No. 1 in The Big Easy. By the way, also interesting is the story around the murals – you can read about it here greetingstour.com.

In the late afternoon we finally reached our accommodation on Canal Street. This street is in itself a sight of the city and separates the old town (the French Quarter) from the modern business district. It is one of the largest streets in America and is especially famous for its parades during Mardi Gras. But even so on weekends the street is quite busy and serves for all kinds of vehicles partly for self-expression or partly as a race track.

Pulsating joie de vivre

Our accommodation was the Sonder at The Promenade*. The best way to describe the concept is “professional Airbnb”. With an access code, we entered our apartment, which left nothing to be desired. A fully equipped kitchen was just as much a part of it as a huge balcony and a beautifully furnished bedroom/living area. In combination with the perfect location, we can recommend the accommodation 100%.

At the end of our trip, New Orleans was of course again a blast and a tour de force. Similar to South America at the time with Rio de Janeiro as a finale. We immediately immersed ourselves in the French Quarter (the old town, basically) and Bourbon Street. A human circus zoo welcomed us and rolled over us like an avalanche of human creatures. It was pure madness to walk down Bourbon Street and compare it to Broadway in Nashville or Beale Street in Memphis. New Orleans is not necessarily better, but definitely wilder. New Orleans also gave us the impression of a large antique store with water damage.

We then started the first full day in New Orleans with a full tour, having returned our rental car ahead of schedule the night before and getting back into the city by bus for 2 Dollar per person. Our first destination was now Bourbon Street in daylight and with less crowds than the evening before. So we could stroll relaxed along this hot spot and collect impressions. Even early in the day, you can literally hear the street pulsating.

Lively rhythm of history, culture and music

Our second destination was St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, but unfortunately the cemetery can only be visited by booking a 45-minute tour for 25 USD. Tickets are available online or at the neighboring Basin St. Station. In the end, we didn’t book the tour and just sought shelter at Basin St. Station from the oncoming thunderstorm. We used the short-forced break for a snack and a tour of the visitor center. Basically, New Orleans is known for its numerous cemeteries, which can be found all over the city. St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 is home to the grave of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau and Nicolas Cage‘s Pyramid Tomb, among others.

Two blocks away we came to the beautiful and historic Louis Armstrong Park next to the French Quarter on Rampart Street. Dedicated to the city’s famous jazz trumpeter of the same name, the park is a good place to linger. Congo Square is also located here. A former square where the slaves met on their day of rest.

The French Quarter with its streets as planned on the drawing board invites you to stroll and explore. Every intersection or turn leads to a new discovery. Especially Royal Street, Dumaine Street, Decatur Street or Frenchmen Street at the edge of the center are to be recommended. Several photo spots can be discovered here and besides restaurants, cafes, bars and classic tourist stores, you can also browse beautiful boutiques and artist stores.

The heartbeat of the city

Another highlight is the axis between St. Louis Cathedral, Jackson Square and Washington Artillery Park. A particularly beautiful view can be caught from Washington Artillery Park to St. Louis Cathedral across Jackson Square. In addition, the Mississippi in the back, jazz sounds in the ear and the sun on the head – a moment, which remains in memory eternally.

After so many impressions, it was time for something to eat. Within spitting distance of Washington Artillery Park is the famous Café du Monde, which dates back to 1862. Now a franchise, but here at 800 Decatur Street is the original café that continues to draw crowds to this day. A long line down to the street was proof of its popularity and had us waiting in line as well. A must here is trying the beignets (fried dough with powdered sugar). They taste good, but will not impress people from the Russian region. They will know such pastries from their mothers, aunts and grandmothers (Krebli).

The French Market stretches from Café du Monde to Barracks Street, over several streets and buildings. Here you will find countless markets and small stores to browse. Also, there is always the opportunity to strengthen yourself with food and delicacies. Dive in and see what you can carry.

No voodoo needed for enchantment

The visit of a jazz club must not be missing during a stay in New Orleans, we thought. So, we picked out the 1-2 most famous venues, which we then discarded after in-depth research. Finally, with a bit of luck, we stumbled upon the Mahogany Jazz Hall on Chartres Street. A really great jazz club with live music and on this evening also with a burlesque performance. In addition, drinks are served in a relaxed atmosphere and you can fully focus on the musical performance.

We pre-booked the Sunday Jazz Cruise* with brunch on the Mississippi for the next day. Because what is a must in New Orleans besides jazz? Correct, jazz on the Mississippi and even better on a steamboat. Since the main ship Steamboat Natchez was not in operation due to maintenance, we went on the sister ship, the Riverboat City of New Orleans. The two-hour cruise and the food were great. A live band provided the background music and we received useful information about the city through the speakers. An absolutely recommended tour with a different view of the city from the water.

There is no getting around the topic of voodoo in New Orleans. Former personalities who used Voodoo are among others Marie Laveau or Dr. John. Many stories and many stores (for tourists) can be found in the city as well as countless tours. The brave can also have tarot cards read. It is up to you what you want to experience during your visit and if you want to pay 50 USD for a card reading. In any case, we recommend a visit to the New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum for 10 USD per person. In small rooms all kinds of findings are presented and also the history of voodoo. An entertaining way to pass the time, which also sufficiently illuminates and processes the voodoo theme in New Orleans.

Welcome to the South

Besides Voodoo, a souvenir photo in front of the LaBranche House is a must. It is located at the intersection of Royal Street and St. Peter Street and displays the wonderful architecture of that time, representative of the entire French Quarter. On the way home, we grabbed a bite from Killer PoBoys and enjoyed the end of the day on our terrace overlooking the spectacle on Canal Street on this Saturday evening.

And then it was time. The last day dawned and a certain melancholy settled on our minds. We countered it with as much variety and distraction as possible. A classic breakfast at IHOP was a must. Fortified with eggs, bacon and pancakes, we took the streetcar (Streetcar) down Canal Street to The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk. Here we made sure to push our suitcase and backpack capacities to their limits.

The true Sin City

We then finished our sightseeing in the former Storyville neighborhood with Basin Street. The former entertainment district and venue for jazz is hard to identify today, as most of the buildings have been demolished. One of the last buildings today is the New Image Supermarket. Formerly known as Frank Early’s Saloon and venue for numerous jazz musicians. Other well-known buildings included Lulu White’s Saloon at 237 Basin Street and Joe Victor’s Saloon at 1534 St. Louis Street.

At Walk-On’s Sports Bistreaux, we didn’t just end the day. We weren’t just ending our New Orleans visit, either. We ended our three-week journey through the Middle East of the USA. True to style with burgers and beer our trip now came to an end and we hereby also conclude our documentation. We passed the Great Lakes and the Great River, crossed the Old Route 66 – always with manifold background music – and this historical power, which is inherent in every brick. Yes, the USA is always worth a trip. The fascination lives on and still offers much to discover. We are looking forward to it.

Until then, you can enjoy our east coast tour again here.

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